Curls aren't complicated—they just respond more sensitively to care, habits, and products. Many problems such as frizz, lack of volume, or an irritated scalp don't arise because curls are difficult, but because they are often treated like straight hair. Here are the five most common mistakes—and how to avoid them.
1. Not all foam is created equal when it comes to cleaning
Many people automatically associate cleanliness with lots of foam. This is because we have been taught this for decades: the more a shampoo foams, the more "thorough" the cleansing feels. But chemically speaking, foaming and cleansing are two different processes.
Surfactants are responsible for the actual cleaning process. Surfactants are detergent substances that dissolve grease and dirt by binding to both water and oil. They envelop dirt particles and enable them to be rinsed away with water. Foam, on the other hand, is created by the ability of certain surfactants to trap air.
Highly foaming sulfates such as sodium lauryl sulfate produce a lot of foam, but often clean very aggressively and can attack the natural lipid layer of the scalp. Milder surfactants such as coco glucoside or sodium cocoyl isethionate produce significantly less foam, but still clean effectively. The visible foam therefore says nothing about the actual cleaning power. Mild cleansing is particularly beneficial for curls, as it preserves the natural protective layer of the curly crown and does not irritate the scalp unnecessarily.
2. Switching to the Curly Method takes time
When you switch from strong degreasing shampoos to mild curly hair shampoos, your scalp often reacts with irritation at first. For years, it has been completely degreased with every wash. To compensate for this, it has increased its sebum production.
If you switch to milder products, your scalp will no longer be cleansed as thoroughly, but will initially continue to produce the same amount of sebum. This can make your hair feel greasy or unfamiliar. Some people even report itching or slight dandruff during the transition phase.
This is not a malfunction, but a regulatory process. The scalp needs time to regain its balance. With patience, sebum production usually normalizes on its own. A gentle scalp exfoliation can help remove dead skin cells and stimulate blood circulation. It is important not to panic and resort to aggressive shampoos, but to give the scalp time to adjust.
You can support your scalp with a gentle exfoliation:
DIY scalp scrub:
2 tablespoons white sugar
2 tablespoons olive oil
Mix well, divide hair into sections, and massage gently into the scalp. Leave on for 5 minutes, then rinse out with shampoo.
White sugar is particularly suitable as it has optimal exfoliating properties and is easy to wash off.
3. Co-Wash not suitable for every curl type
Co-washing means cleaning your curls using only conditioner. This works because conditioners contain mild cationic surfactants that can remove light dirt. This can work wonders for very dry, frizzy curls.
However, fine or wavy curls often react sensitively to this method. Conditioners contain nourishing lipids and film-forming substances that make the hair supple. However, these substances can quickly weigh down fine hair. The curls lose their bounce and appear flat or stringy.
Fine hair in particular often lacks the structure to retain rich care products over time. A mild curly shampoo provides a better balance between cleansing and volume. Co-Wash therefore not a must in the Curly Method, but rather a tool that should be used on an individual basis.
4. Too much styling product
Many believe that more product automatically means more definition. In fact, too much styling can weigh down curls and restrict their natural movement. Leave-ins, creams, and gels contain film formers, moisturizers, and oils. These substances coat the curl fiber and provide hold or smoothness.
However, using too much will weigh the hair down. The curls will be pulled down and lose volume. Fine curls are particularly sensitive to product build-up.
Less product often means more elasticity and more natural movement. A small amount, well distributed with water, is usually sufficient. With gel, it is often enough to gently scrunch the curls instead of completely saturating them. The goal is not to use the maximum amount of product, but to distribute it evenly with sufficient hold.
5. Comb curls dry
Combing curls when dry is one of the most common mistakes. Curly hair has a spiral structure, which makes individual strands more likely to become tangled. When dry, the cuticle layer is slightly open and there is more friction between the hair fibers.
Brushing causes tension and mechanical stress. This leads to hair breakage, frizz, and damaged curls.
However, if the hair is combed while damp, it is more elastic and supple. Conditioner or leave-in products also make it easier to comb through. This makes it easier to detangle the strands without destroying the natural curl shape. Curls should therefore ideally be detangled in the shower or immediately after washing. When dry, gentle refreshing is much more effective than brushing.
How can I tell which of these errors applies to me?
Many curl problems feel similar—but the cause is often completely different. That's why it's important to not only look at the symptoms, but to closely observe the behavior of your curls. Here are some typical signs that can help you identify your personal care mistakes.
When your curls never feel properly clean
Do your curls feel soft after washing, but "not quite fresh"? Then you may still be expecting the usual squeaky feeling of strongly degreasing shampoos. Milder curly hair shampoos clean gently and preserve the natural protective layer of your curls. This makes your hair feel different—but not unkempt. Make sure to only massage the shampoo into your scalp and lather it up with a little water. Often, the feeling is not due to a lack of cleansing, but to changed expectations.
If your scalp becomes greasy or itchy more quickly after switching
If your hair quickly becomes greasy or your scalp starts to itch after the change, your scalp is probably still in the adjustment phase. It was used to being completely degreased every time you washed your hair and initially continues to produce more sebum. This is a normal adjustment reaction. With a little patience, sebum production will usually regulate itself. A gentle scalp exfoliation can help remove dead skin cells and promote balance.
If your curls appear flat and lifeless
If your curls lack volume and bounce even though they look soft and well-groomed, you may be using products that are too rich. Fine curls in particular are sensitive to heavy creams, butters, or too much conditioner. These products weigh down the curls and cause them to lose their natural bounce. Lighter care products and styling products with good hold can help here without adding extra weight.
If your curls are nicely defined at first but later fall flat
If your curls look perfect in the morning but lose their shape after a few hours, this may be due to an incorrect product balance. Either too much product has been used or there is not enough hold. Too much product weighs the curls down, while too little structure causes them to fall apart more quickly. It is often sufficient to reduce the amount of product and instead apply a styling product with stronger hold.
If your curls quickly become frizzy and brittle
Severe frizz, small flyaways, and hair breakage are often caused by mechanical stress. When curls are brushed dry, the strands become tangled. The cuticle layer becomes roughened and the natural curl structure loses its definition. Curls should therefore only be detangled when damp, using sufficient care. When dry, gentle refreshing is much more helpful than brushing.
